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'(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

J. EMANUEL 8a A. SPIELMANN.

SEWING MACHINE No. 530,986.

Pat emed Dec. 18,1894.

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J. EMANUEL & A. SPIELMANN.

SEWING MACHINE. No. 530,986. Patented Dec. 18,1894

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JACOB EMANUEL AND ADOLF SFIELMANN, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENN- SYLVANIA,ASSIGNORS OF ONE-THIRD TO HAYMIN MAIMIN, OF SAME PLACE.

SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 530,986, dated December18, 1894.

Application filed November 3, 1894- Serial No. 489,901. (No model.) I

T0 or whom, it may concern:

l 3e it known that we, JACOB EMANUEL, a citizen of the United States,and ADOLF 'SPIELMANN, a subject of the King of Austria- Hungary, andboth now residing at the city of Philadelphia, in the county ofPhiladelphia and State of Pennsylvania, have jointly invented certainnew and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, of which the followingis a specification.

Our invention has relation to sewing machines; and relates moreparticularly to the construction and arrangement of a thread controllingdevice for that class designated as button-hole sewing machines.

The principal object of our invention is to provide a simple,inexpensive and effective thread controlling device detachably connectedwith the needle bar of a button hole sewing machine; and to which end itconsists of a detachable cap applied to a rotary needle bar and providedwith adjustable fingers or arms of dilferent lengths and having threadguiding eyes and said fingers or arms adjustably engaging said cap andextending in different directions from said needle bar, as hereinaftermore fully described and claimed.

The nature and general features of our invention will be more fullyunderstood from the following description taken in connection with theaccompanying drawings forming part hereof, and in which- Figure 1, is aside elevational view partly in broken section of the well known form ofReece button-hole sewing machine provided with a needle bar having anadjustable and detachable thread controlling device embodying featuresof our invention in application thereto, the needle bar being shown inan elevated position with the thread or silk in a slack condition and insuch length as to feed the needle therewith in the formation of thefirst stitch 0f the button-hole to be sewed.

Fig. 2, is a perspectiveview of the'upper part of the machine, showingthe position of the needle-bar and the thread cont-rolling device, whenthe machine has completed the sewing of the button-hole and thecondition of the thread or silk in such position of the needle thethread slackened by the half revolution of the needle-bar.

Referring to the drawings with special reference to Fig. 1, A is themovable overhanging frame of the machine suitably connected to abed-plate, as illustrated in the Letters Patent No. 240,546, of April26, 1881, and No. 349,359, dated September 21, 1886, to which recoursemay be had, but it may be here remarked With respect to the generaloperation of such type of machine, that the material is held by astationary clamp and the stitch forming and cutting mechanisms arecarried by the traveling frame, so that the buttonhole is first cut inthe material, the stitch forming devices move along one side of thebutton-hole to work the same, then with a partial rotative movementaround the eye thereof and finally backward along the second side of thebutton-hole to complete the same; it being understood that the stitchforming mechanism is at rest, while the button-hole is being cut, and isautomatically brought into operation when the traveling plate hasretreated far enough to free the cutter of the needles. When thestitching of the button-hole has been completed the stitch formingmechanism is automatically suspended. The longitudinal or travelingmovement of the plate, carrying the stitch forming'mechanism isimpartedto the same from the groove of a cam-wheel rotating on a hubattached to a stationary frame and acting on a stud attached to thetraveling plate and the slight lateral movements of this traveling plateare effected by a rock-shaft having arms engaging respectively said camand plate, as in the said Patent No. 240,546, fully ex plained.

The needle bar B,in this instance, has but one needle B, with an eye Band is supplied with thread or silk from a spool or bobbin E, through afeeder O, to the spring controlled tension device D, and therefrom toand through the eyes of a controlling device of our invention to behereinafter fully ex- 100 plained and thence to and through aguide 9, tothe eye B of the needle B. a

It may be here remarked that the needle B, at each descent is caused topenetrate the material at a little distance back from the edge thereofand when the needle arrives at the eye of the button-hole, theneedle-bar B, and needle B, are set in slow rotary movement, while thestitch forming mechanism below the throat plate which has been movedlongitudinally is actuated laterally and partially rotated in alignmentwith the needle-bar B, so as to carry the stitches around the eye of thebutton-hole. The stitch forming mechanism, it may be here remarked, isoperated by means of a sector and gears; the sector deriving itsmovement from the groove in the cam wheel, all as fully described in thesaid last mentioned patent.

a, in Fig. 1, isa tapering cap fitting theupper extremity of the needlebar B, of the Reece machine, and provided with a tightening screw 0,,and an oblong slot a extending through the body thereof.

a is an adjustable screw fitting the body of the cap a, from the top andadapted to be brought into engagement with fingers or arms I) and b, asillustrated in Figs. 1 and 2, one of which is made longer than the otherin order that during the rotary movement of the needle bar through ahalf revolution by means of the sector-gear B of the machine, the.thread or silk in passing through the tension 1 device D, from the spoolE, mounted on the holder F, may in required quantity be gathered toprovide slack thread or silk for the.

formation of the first stitch of the sewing of the button-hole as willbe presently fully explained. In the ascent of the needle follow-.

ing, in order to form the other stitches, the

thread will be drawn by the guide or feeder G, from the spool or bobbinE, in sufficient. quantity to permit the subsequent supply of l 5 theposition as illustrated in Figs. 2 and 3.

the needle therewith.

The arms or fingers of the thread or silk given to those shown in thedrawings, because such have given good results in the practice 1 Thefingers or arms disposed at an angle to each other are provided .oftheinvention.

with eyes I) and b for the passage therethrough of the thread or silkfrom the bobbin E, feeder C, and tension device D, and which is led fromthe arm I), in a downward direction into engagement with or through theguide 0, and through the eye B of the needle B.

In the operation of the Reece machine such as hereinbefore described,the needle bar B, is caused by the completion of the sewing of thebutton-hole, to assume the position illustrated in Figs. 2 and 3, and aswell the arms I) and b, and the thread to assume such positions as soillustrated therein.

Before the needle-bar B, and its needle B, is afiorded a vertical motionto commence the sewing of another button-hole, the same by means of thesector-gear B mes-hing with a fixed gear of the needle-bar B, is turnedin the direction of the arrow in Fig. 3, until the needle which iseccentrically connected with the needle-bar B, the arms b and b, andthread guide 0, assume respectively thepositions illustrated in Figs. 1and 4. It should be borne in mind that the thread or silk which wascaused to occupy a taut or unslackened condition will be slackened forthe length of the thread between the eye 6 of the arm I), occupying theposition in Fig. 3, to that of the same eye and arm in the positionshown in Fig. 4. This length of thread is sufficient to allow of theformation of the first stitch in the stitching of the button-holewithout a supply of thread from the spool E, which is necessary for theformation of the other stitches in the sewing of the button-hole.

Hitherto it was necessary to pull out by hand a sufficient length of thethread or silk to form the first stitch in order to prevent adisengagement of the thread or silk from the needle in its descent, asthe feeder 0, did not feed the thread from the spool E. In a word, theoperator had to draw more than a sufficient length of thread or silkfrom the spool E, than was necessary to form the first stitch, and thuswas unnecessary waste occasioned in the stitching of thebutton-hole, butaccording to our invention when the needle B the respective arms I) and.b, and guide a, are caused to assume the position as illustrated inFigs. 1 and 4c, the needle-bar B, and its needle B, will move downwardand form the first stitch in the manner set forth in the Reece patentshereinbefore mentioned, and the thread or silk will become taut andremain in such condition, until the sewing of the button-hole has beencompleted, in which operation the needle bar B, the thread guide 0, andthe arms I) and b, will be returned to When the arms b and b, the guide0, and needle-bar B, during the formation of the stitches in the sewingof the button-hole by the instrumentality of the sector-gear B and thefixed gear of the needle bar B, are returned to the positionsillustrated in Figs. 2 and 3, the thread or silk will again be slackenedfor the formation of the first stitch of another button-hole by theneedle bar B, needle B, arms I) and b, and thread guide a, respectivelyassuming the positions illustrated in Figs. 1 and 4:, as previouslyfully explained. V

The particular advantageous feature of our invention as described is theobviating of waste of the thread or silk in the formation of the firststitch in the sewing ofa buttonhole.

Having thus described the nature and objects of our invention, what weclaim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

In a sewing machine, a rotary needle-bar, a detachable cap provided withadjustable fingers or arms of different lengths and havoursignaturesinthe presence of two subscribing thread guiding eyes and said fingers oring witnesses.

arms adjustably engaging said cap and ex- JACOB EMANUEL, tending indiiferent'directions from said nee- ADOLF SPIELMANN. 5 die-bar,substantially as and for the purposes Witnesses:

set forth. THOMAS M. SMITH,

In testimony whereof we have hereunto set LOUIS WINTERBERGER.

